Vino Vinace Consulting

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Via Del Grosso 3
Castiglione Falletto
P-39 0173 62852
F-39 0173 462049

Visiting Brovia was a real treat for me as I have been following there wines for years. Their compact home has a bit of almost Nautical/Prairie influence typical of a certain time in Italian design. Being greeted in that courtyard by a lovely Brovia sisters certainly alleviate the anxiety one feels as their lovely dog alerts everyone of our arrival.

Nestled as they are at the foot of the hill of Castiglione Falletto, this Hamlet of Garbeletto gives it’s name to Brovia’s Garblet Sue bottling, made from their South-Southwest facing portion of the renowned Fiasco vineyard. With a concentration of holdings in Castiglione the Brovia family produces two other Cru Barolo, Villero and Rocche as well as a Bottling from the Serralunga vineyard Brea that is called Ca’Mia.

Having undergone recent replanting efforts the Ca’Mia vineyards’ younger vines now make half of the blend for the Brovia Normale bottling with the remaining half coming from the odds and ends of the remaining crus that don’t find their way into the botti.

In addition to fine Barolo Brovia is well known for their full line of Piedmontese wines though on this occasion we only had time to sample the two excellent Barberas.  The Sori del Drago Bottling is a blend of fruit from Castiglione and Serralunga that sees only Stainless steel ageing thus preserving it’s sharp, traditional feel. On the other hand the Brea bottling, entirely from Serralunga fruit, sees over a years ageing in smaller wood giving the rich fruit a bit of a softer edge.

Brovia wines have consistently flown under the radar and these unique, expressive wines offer a great opportunity to compare the great terriors of Castiglione with a consistent wine making style. All of the Barolos undergo moderately long, traditional fermentations and then spend time in similar, large sized oak boti. They deserve the attention of all who appreciate this style of winemaking and if one ever has the chance to try their mythic 1985 Monprivato please let me know. I’m still waiting for my turn.

2005 Barbera Sori Del Drago – 89pts
From a freshly opened bottle

Fruity and fresh on the nose with floral tones and an almost salty mineral notes 2+
Big entry with bright acidity and just a hint of tannin,excellent integration 2+
Really fresh fruit tones with good depth to the black raspberry notes 2+
Clean and brisk on the finish with very precise strawberry and mineral notes 2+

2005 Barbera Brea – 88pts
From a bottle open 2 days

Jammy on the nose with a terpene edge, very dark fruit, wood is hinted at but integrated 2
Softer acidity with a mouthfilling feel that has a touch of cocoa like tannin 2+
Richly fruited with dark mineral almost truffly edges to the dried strawberry fruit that is almost sweet 2+
The finish is a touch short and soft with an aggressive mineral note 2

2004 Nebbiolo Valmaggiore – 89pts
From a bottle open 2 days

Very floral nose with hints of peach skin, ivy, and tender rosehip note, very high toned 2
Light and elegant in the mouth with sweet tannins and integrated acidity 2+
A bit rochy, strongly mineral on the attack with slightly sour and astringent strawberry/lingonberry fruits and a very gentle vegetal top note 2
Very nice cheek grabbing tannins frame the long edgy finish with it’s strawberry notes and hints of hazelnut, sandy and a meaty finale  3

2003 Barolo Villero – 87pts
From a bottle open 2 days

Hightoned yet a bit pruny on the nose with a bit of nut skin and macerated flowers adding interest. Adds some feral animale notes and a touch of candle wax 2+
Medium full in the mouth and well integrated if seemly a bit hot with a touch of drying tannin 2
Herbal on entry with a restrained core of dried raspberry fruit that is a touch earthy and rustic 2
Finishes long and a touch hot with better poise but still a touch hot, a nice minty flourish on the finale 2

2003 Ca’Mia – 93 pts
From a freshly opened bottle

Dark and dense on the nose with reticent notes of dried cherry, leather, medicinal herbs and roots and a menthol top note 3
Rich and powerful in the mouth with serious tannins and bright acidity 2+
Big flavors of astringent red berries, spicy nettles, hints of brown tones leaning towards tobacco, cocoa, leather and dried orchard fruits 3
Finishes a touch clipped but with layers of mineral, earth and herb notes that gain a gentle dried orchard fruit sweetness and a subtly spicy finale 3

2004 Barolo  - 92pts
From a freshly opened bottle

Intense notes of walnut shells, violets, roast meat, herb stem, sand, a touch of menthol, spicy and every so stewy wild berry fruit 3
Superb elegance in the mouth with a sweet entry and a steely midpalate showing superb balance and integration 3+
Fresh and cool flavors of mineral, licorice and wild berry are crisp and virtually ready to drink, delicious 2+
The medium length finish is tight and taut with just a hint of austerity and noteworthy transparency to the earth and tobacco tones 2+

2004 Villero  - 91pts
From a freshly opened bottle

Dark and smoky on the nose with plums in alcohol and rich earth and sottobsco notes. Top notes of pollen, saffron and lilac add hight and lighten it up 3
Big and a touch viscous in the mouth yet with superb freshness with bright acidity and tons of soft tannins 3
Dark and a touch mysterious in the mouth with licorice and cocoa notes up front that yield to dark, reticent fruit that is tinged with balsam mid-palate notes 2+
Very tight and taut on the finish with very savory fruit that has a strong mineral/tarry character and ends with spicy notes of salame on the finale 2+

2004 Brovia Ca Mia – 90pts
 Shy on the nose with subtle rosehips, ripe herbs, layered with dried strawberry and dry soil tones 3
Gentle and elegant in the mouth, caressing and elegant 2
Tight, lovely rosehip core with slight dried soil, dried herb edges to the small red fruits, slight drying apple peels perfume in the mouth 2
Very crisp on the finish with a high toned appeal that blends the dried red currant notes with edges of slightly spicy dried meats/speck, very long finish 3     (5/2008)

2004 Brovia Rocche – 88pts
Slightly jammy fruits on the nose with a slight feral edge, a touch meaty with menthol and asphalt undertones 2+
Good acids in the mouth with a soft, gentle, approachable character 2+
Low intensity flavors with great transparency, slight sour berry fruit, uncomplicated 2
Finishes short and austere without great intensity 2     (5/2008)

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