
Vietti Rocche Horizontal with Luca Corrado - (2/2008)
I'ld spoken with Luca Currado several
times over the years trying to pull together this event and finally
with short notice we were able to find an opportunity last night. And
so it was that a dozen wine geeks joined together for what is an early
candidate for dinner of the year!
It was delight to sit with Luca and drink these wines. Some tidbits gleaned from the evenings conversations.
1961
saw the first cru bottling which was from the Rocche vineyard. Prunotto
also started Cru bottling in 1961 with their Bussia so these wines
formed the foundation for the whole movement. All of Vietti's wines
come from vineyards they own though the were forced to sell them at one
point and had to repurchase them.
Temperature control came to
Vietti in 1980 which is one of the milestones for the winery. the
second would be when Luca took over the winemaking with the 1988
vintage. At that point he began the regimen that continues to this day
for Rocche. Malo in barrique of which 1/3rd is new then after 3 months
to botti for long term ageing. Luca did not make the wines in 1990 and
1991 since he was working outside of the country but returned in 1992.
Vietti
was sued in 1968 for the use of the term Cru on the label, by the
French. While the suit was being contested Luca's father continued to
print the word cru on the label but over printed several lines to cross
it out. Photo to come but it was a cool bit of trivia.
But now on to the show.
This
first flight, while not offering the best wines, was a great flight.
The progression from a wine at peak , through it's downslope, and at
the end of it's life was both enlightening and interesting. These three
wine worked so well together for a perfect introductory flight.
- 1967 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Apon
opening this had the very faded appearance of pale onion skin. The nose
was dominated by sweet notes of madeirization with scents of limestone,
earth, onion powder and panchetta adding dimension. In the mouth there
was corresponding sweetness with an echo of strawberry fruit remaining
and nice notes of dried orange peel on the finish which turned more
spiced with notes of mulling spices and light cherry even. Obviously
faded but still intact. @ hours later at the table this had gained
sweetness on the nose with a nice combination of secondary and tertiary
notes that recalled Chinato with it's blend of herbs, mint, and
sweetness. In the mouth this was soft with good flavor intensity
supported by the vibrant acidity. Citrussy and herbal in the mouth this
is at the very end of it's life but the aromatic and volatile nose was
a pleasure to smell (87 pts.) - 1970 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
While
also very pale this retained a nice shade of bronzed red color.
Offering less sweetness on the nose when opened this shared the dried
onion and herb notes but offered a bit more dried fruits and leather
tones. In the mouth this is really well integrated and gentle with less
overt sweetness than the 67 but really lovely ripe acidity supporting
fading berry fruit that turns citrussy on the finish. A bit lean and
sinewy as is typical of the vintage with a touch of green tomato/green
walnut on the austere finish. After 2 hours this had gained sweetness
on the nose as well as somewhat floral but gave a sort of dull, matte
impression that featured a dusty beet rootiness with hints of blood and
mint. In the mouth this was softer than the 67 and more opulent with
soft and round tannins that provided enough structure to keep this siky
and elegant though without significant intensity or complexity. Still
this remained sensualy enjoyable for its lovely resolved texture. This
bottle probably underperformed for the vintage but we did catch it
right in mid-downslope. Drink em if you got em. (87 pts.) - 1974 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
was much darker and more saturated with a lovely mahogony red hue. The
nose offers dark, caramel tinged savory notes of earth, stone, mineral,
and cedar notes. In the mouth this retains some agressive tannins
balanced by solid acidity. Austere and lean with faded fruit that
offers moderately rich notes of earth and leather turning towards sour
fruits on the finish ending with notes of flowers and persimmons. After
2 hours this really blossomed aromatically with note of pure ripe fruit
and flowers. in the mouth this is fairly big and bordering on lush with
great integration and lovely cherry fruit with notes of mineral and
truffle adding complexity. The flavors are not as evolved as the
structure which made this lacy and elegant bottle seem very youthful.
Truly at peak though this may not have a terrible long life left. From
a very cold European cellar. 2008-2012 (91 pts.)
Again we got luck here for while the
85 was corked this flight featured wines fully at peak and the wines
worked well together as a group illustrating the quality of their
respective vintage.
- 1978 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
was surprisingly pale and evolved out of the bottle. Luca explained
that there are in fact two distinct bottlings of this wine, separate
botti bottled a year apart which accounts for the range of experiences
I've had with these wines. This I presume is the second bottling since
it lacks some of the freshness and depth of other bottles. The nose is
very perfumy with macerated fruits, flowers, nut meats, slightly
candied and subtly minty and iron-y. It is both fresh and complex.
Elegant in the mouth with good buffering material, ripe acids and soft,
slightly chewy tannins support good sour cherry/sour melon fruits.
There is lovely grab towards the backend that leads to a lightly
floral, sour fruits finish which is long and turns redder on the final
with a touch of mineral reverb. After two hours this has shed some of
it's fruit as the nose offers up a more evolved, savory character that
is a bit beefy and spicy. A touch drying in the mouth this remains
powerful and dark but evolved both structurally and in taste. Imported
through Chicago by Consolidated. This is not the better bottling.
2008-2012 (88 pts.) - 1982 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Visually
we've entered a different period here with deep burnished red black
highlights, and a mahogony rim. Sweet on the nose with baking spices,
roast meat, earth and floral tones and hints of tomato and mineral.
Rich and voluptuous in the mouth, so at peak, ripe tannins, ripe
acidity, very tarry fruit that leans toward the strawberry end of the
spectrum with complicating notes of church candle. Sinewy muscularity,
this is like a dincer, The finish is very precise with good limestony
minerality and a finale of gentle sweetness. After 2 hours this has a
lovely perfume of roses, spices, stewed fruits and a bit of smoky
speck. Great intensity and the layering of perfect maturity. In the
mouth this is youthful with a chewy mouthfeel, great minerality with
precise cherry pit fruit and an almost austere, angular quality. Firmly
in it's drinking window one could ask for a bit more complexity here
but texturally this is very appealing. 2008-2020 (93 pts.) - 1985 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
More
evolved color than the 82 and lighter this unfortunately is lightly
corked but one can sense the almost sweet fruit on the nose that is
joined by notes of forest floor, balsom, asphalt, and floral, minty
tones. I passed this around the table anyway since it was not fatally
corked. It showed a very beefy character with sweet tarriness and herbs
over dark fruits. Round and opulent in the mouth with a finish of
slightly liquory root notes. This should have been very good but an
accurate assessment will have to wait for a correct bottle. (FLAWED)
This of course was the flight of the
night. Three great vintages, three great wines at peak yet with some
room for improvement. It was here that one could really get a sense of
Rocche with it's salty, floral, herbal fruit as well as the House style
so vividly illustrated across three distinctly different vintages.
Simply a great flight.
- 1988 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
looks just a little fresher than the 82. The nose out of the bottle is
crazy, it smells like floral scented candles over pear and frutti di
bosco preserves. I've never smelled a wine so intensely floral before
wow. In the mouth this is elegant showing very fine integration with a
bit of new wood. Not terribly complex or layered yet but rather linear
with slightly jammy fruits up front and stony minerality under that
leads out the back end to a finish that is a touch drying but offers a
lovely and refreshing bitter almond twist on the finale.After 3 hours
the nose here is sweet and almost treacly with some coffee crema notes,
good hints of florality but nothing like before though that has been
replaced by notes of moist earth, smoke, and pollen. In the mouth this
is cool and restrained with a lithe, elegant quality to it. Dark and
faceted this offers real cut and great integration with a finish that
echoes the complicating notes of mineral and beef found on the palate.
Just at the beginning of it's drinking window this is very fine stuff
2008-2020 (92 pts.) - 1989 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
paler
and brassier than the preceding 3 wines this seems quite evolved on the
nose with lots of floral highlights over a core of strawberry fruit
with notes of tar, sand and prosciutto adding depth. Reticent and taut
in the mouth with fruit tones floating above the palate this is
mysterious with relatively light weight though very finely balanced.
Brisk and with finesse, this offers stern yet not abbrasive tannins
with really herby, rhubarby fruit that leads to a spicy finish that
hints at curry tones. After 3 hours this has just blossomed with a nose
full of salted capers, truffles, caraway seed, pressed flowers, and
ripe fruit. The palate has really filled in and maintains nice tension
with tons of ripe tannins and bright acidity that are gorgeously
integrated. Very youthful , long and complete this is my WOTN.
2008-2025 (95 pts.) - 1990 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A
bit darker in the glass than the preceding wines this offers a new
range of youthfulness. Fresh in the nose with notes of blond tobacco
and earthy sotto bosco just peaking out of the closed nose. Powerful
fruit still buffering the tannins though they do clamp down on the
short finish that offers good mineral freshness. There is a taut core
of good cherry fruit lurking in there.After 3 hours this offers a riper
nose flush with dried fruits and ripe herbs. Languid and lush in the
mouth this is well balanced and round but fairly 2-toned with
contrasting very ripe fruits and very ripe herbs and not much else
adding complexity. Still this does have a long finish and is fun to
drink in a dumb blond way, and who doesn't need a dumb blond once in a
while? 2008-2015 (91 pts.)
Here we entered a more difficult
stage to assess, in fact probably the most difficult but the wines
remained tru to their vintages and were surprisingly open. The 1998 in
particular was one tonight.
- 1996 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
is the last bottle that iI really sat with before dinner. Obviously
youthful red color. Smoky pork fat nose is spicy and peppery with cool,
crisp stone fruits. Very fresh but very reserved. After 3 hours this
had opened nicely with seared plum fruit on the nose joined by nettles,
cardamom, faint curry spice, a touch of wood, butchers wax and
prosciutto notes. The entry is cool and restrained with very feminine
power, fine balance of ripe tannin and acidity. This is sexy and
surprisingly gentle with a solid core of fruit offering classic
licorice and tar tones but not really ready. the nose is offering more
than the palate at this point but this looks to be very good. 2012-2025
(92 pts.) - 1997 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
was only tasted after it had been open 3-4 hours. Riper fruits on the
nose but unlike the 1990 with intact minerality and complicating notes
of herb, mint, leather and dried date like fruit. Round and lush in the
mouth though there is a bit of unripe bitter tannin here that dominates
the finish somewhat. In the mouth the fruit has slightly exotic earth
and tea components that are intriguing but this doesn't have the
balance of the finest vintages. 2008-2015 (88 pts.) - 1998 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
also was only tasted afor it had been opened for 4 hours. Very perfumy
nose is plummy and aromatic with bay leaf, flowers, herbs and almost
salty, really layered and intense aromatics here. In the mouth this is
round, lush and seamless. It is very easy drinking but has freshness
and godd depth and complexity . A very successful 1998. 2008-2020 (90 pts.)
Here again we entered a new stage of
evolution, more about promis than performance. This trio will in time
challenge the 88-90 trio and in 8 years I'll try all 6 together again
for a fantastic evening but for now this was a bit premature.
- 1999 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Again
after 4 hours this offers a wonderful contrast to the warmer years with
it's spicy, musky tones of wild orchard fruits, crisp mint and pine
tones and subtle, nuanced notes of wood spice and toast. Fresh and
crisp in the mouth with black cherry fruit that has great verve and
minerality. Has a deceptive gentleness that makes it deceptively easy
to drink but this should develop splendidly. (93 pts.) - 2000 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Again
only after 4 hours in the opened bottle. Riper on the nose than the 99
and bordering on jammy with a spicy, matte quality yet with ripe herbs
and floral highlights. Sweet in the mouth and absolutely mouthfilling,
soft acidity and soft tannins make this very easy on the palate and the
fruit is very rich and juicy if not particularly complex. Maybe this
lacks a bit of focus but it makes up for it with volume. Hedonism in a
glass. 2008-2016 (91 pts.) - 2001 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Again
after 4 hours this offers an intense nose of spicy herbs, citrussy
acidity, tangy fruits and salinity. Mouthfilling and seamless but
without the density of the 2000, more cut and finesse. It almost seems
soft at times due to the concentration of the fruit but regains great
focus with complicating notes of minerality and gentle wood toned spice
notes. An infant but with great promise. 2012-2025 (92 pts.)
Luca brought these to add to the
evening but they were lost in the restaurant's basement until the end
of dinner. Fun to try but I wish they had had a chance to open a bit
more.
- 2003 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
was popped and poured - A touch of wood greats the nose, sweet roasted
cherry, mint, herb. Round in the mouth reminding 97 with it's weighty
palate impression and somewhat drying tannin. Good but not great.
2024-2020 (88 pts.) - 2004 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This
was popped and poured. Cool fruits on the nose with hints of pink
peppercorn, tomato and spice, a whiff of sweet vanillin, bay leaf, red
fruits. This falls in the 96,99,01 paradigm with bright yet ripe
structure and a cool sense of restraint, crisp fruit and deep bass
notes of tar and licorice. Just spent a few minutes here but his will
be interesting to follow and try again. (93 pts.)
And so it was a great evening, only
one off bottle. In all the wines showed very well, highlighting an
elegant style that may sacrifice a bit of depth or complexity in
exchange for finesse and approachability. Yields are kept very low and
while Luca expressed some concern that this may create a certain
homogeneous character to the wine I think the results speak for
themselves. Each wine was exceptionally representative of it's vintage.
In short there was a wine for every palate available last night and I
thoroughly enjoyed each and every one.